Hebridean Isles seen in Uig Bay in 1992
Many members of CRSC have a favourite ship, and Membership Secretary Stuart Craig is no exception, as he fondly reflects on Caledonian MacBrayne’s Hebridean Isles, recently withdrawn after 39 years’ service.
I spent the spring of 2024 living in hope. Perhaps we would get a lovely summer, maybe Scotland would win the football Euros, surely CalMac wouldn’t choose MV Hebridean Isles as the first of the old team to be scrapped. But I’m afraid my hopes for all three have just been finally dashed, for the final straw – and none hit harder than the last item on my list – was the news that the dear old ‘Heb Isles’ would soon go to that great scrap-yard in the sky, or perhaps the one in Turkey. I’ve made no bones about ‘HI’ (see, now I can’t even bear to say her full name) being my favourite CalMac ship; I will outline the reasons why shortly.
So what was my reaction to the announcement that she would be leaving the CalMac network permanently in November this year? Well I just had to phone the Caledonian MacBrayne Helpline. The conversation went a bit like this:
“Hello, how can I help?”
“Please don’t break-up the Hebridean Isles!”
“Oh don’t worry sir, the Hebrides have been fragmented for eons, by the Hebridean Sea, but they’re doing just fine.”
“No I mean, please don’t send the Hebridean Isles to Turkey!”
“I think you’ll find, sir, that it’s the turkeys that come to the Hebridean Isles – usually at Christmas.”
“No I mean the ship! Send the Isle of Mull instead, she’s ugly. Or how about Coruisk? You can’t tell which end is which on her. What about the Isle of Arran, her deck seats are so uncomfortable you can’t sit on them!”
A corner in the bar, where the world was often put to rights during ‘Island Hops’ by Stuart and his pals
Of course I didn’t really phone the Helpline – for I knew I would be wasting my time. The decision had been made – and I’m not surprised by the outcome. Despite having a few ‘bob’ spent on her recently to get her back into service after her major prop-shaft disaster, she will be the first of the old ferries to go.
In truth ‘HI’ had to be repaired and kept going in 2023-24; she was needed. New ferries would be arriving soon, well eventually, and some of the fleet would have to give way.
Many should have been retired years ago, so I suppose ‘HI’ has had a stay of execution. Of the trio Isle of Arran , Lord of the Isles and Hebridean Isles I reckoned that two would be scrapped soon. My guess is that, perhaps surprisingly, Lord of the Isles will last the longest, well at least until the last of the four Turkish-built ships enter service. Only she can operate in the tight confines of Mallaig harbour.
Stuart occupies Ian McLaren’s favourite seat
Looking aft along the port side of Heb Isles’ cafeteria
So why was I so fond of the old girl? (That’s Hebridean Isles I’m talking about). Well I loved her lay-out. She had a neat restaurant, a comfortable ‘zizz’ lounge where you could stretch out, an observation lounge, and she possessed that increasingly rare feature: an open deck over-looking the bow. But best of all was her upper, open deck. Here some of the seats were protected by windshields which actually had a window in them.
This was my fellow island-hopper Ian McLaren’s favourite seat. He could sit there for so long that the crew had to haul him off whenever the ship docked, or tied up for the night – whichever came last.
(I haven’t given Ian the bad news yet – I just don’t know how to break it to him). And she had a nice profile, her perfectly raked funnels set just the perfect distance back.
The ‘zizz’ lounge, where Stuart would catch up on his slumbers
I sailed on Hebridean Isles 32 times, on ten different routes, calling at fifteen ports (I will spare you the list, but if you send me a stamped addressed envelope…). Most notable was a return crossing from Wemyss Bay to Rothesay in August 2002 and a unique trip from Ardrossan to Campbeltown in September 2018. I also think back to a memorable sailing between Oban and Colonsay while on one of my ‘Island Hops’ in June 2013. However, those first sailings out of Uig on our earlier trips will always remain clear in my mind as being my induction into Hebridean cruising, and the reason why I will always return.
Hebridean Isles making good speed past Port Askaig
It is a pity the CRSC wasn’t able to enjoy a farewell cruise on her. We could have supplied a makeshift crew among our seafaring membership. We could even have brought our own sandwiches. But it is too late now.
Stuart Craig’s last view of Hebridean Isles in service, leaving Ardrossan for Brodick in September 2024
She rests peacefully in the King George V dock awaiting her fate – whatever that will be. Maybe there will be an auction of all her bits and pieces – especially her new drive shaft. If so I’ll be bidding for a certain well-used red seat from a particular corner of her upper deck. I think I will package it up and send it to my pal Ian.
Stuart commissioned Allan Sheerin of Rothesay to make a model of Hebridean Isles
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Published on 9 December 2024