Backing out of Portree (centre background), with a rocky promontory on one side (far left) and a marker buoy on the other (centre foreground), Waverley steered an immaculate course towards open waters. The call on 8 June was her first visit to the Skye capital since 2018
As Waverley prepares for her 75th anniversary cruise to the head of Loch Long on Thursday, CRSC magazine editor Andrew Clark reviews her West Highland week and assesses prospects for the summer season.
It looked so easy. Backing out of the notoriously constricted harbour at Portree last Wednesday, not once but twice within three hours, the paddler renowned for her wayward astern steering followed a textbook course towards open water, past a rocky promontory to port and then a marker buoy to starboard. The gentle curves in her wake said it all: the manoeuvre had been accomplished with a steady nerve and calm control.
For passengers observing this from the fore or aft decks (especially those who saw Waverley disabled in this very harbour five years ago), it felt like a good omen: she was in capable hands. The same sense of confidence spread through the ship the following day when, on reaching Loch Torridon during the afternoon cruise from Gairloch, she did exactly what excursionists wanted.
Chief Officer Gary Stevenson (left) and Captain Dominic McCall (right) on the bridge of Waverley at Portree on 8 June. Click on image to enlarge
Instead of turning and heading home, she went through the narrows into the bowl-shaped Upper Loch Torridon, a diversion that was not strictly necessary but which added immeasurably to the cruising experience. Here we were, encircled by a gallery of monumental mountains, with a front-seat view from the water that nothing on land could match.
Captain Dominic McCall and Chief Officer Gary Stevenson deserve equal credit for their flair and initiative throughout the 2022 West Highland week, and it is good news that, together with 2nd Officer Iain Goodall, they are now full-time employees, forming a bridge ‘team’ for most of the season. Waverley has not enjoyed such stability for years. Two chief engineers, Tim Jenkins and Paul Hughes, are also expected to see the paddler through to October.
Captain McCall, son of the late maritime author Bernard McCall, is a real find: he blends youth, experience and authority, and has forged an effective partnership with Gary Stevenson, an equally capable ship handler who gave backbone to the paddler’s 2021 operations.
So yes, there are grounds for optimism at the start of Waverley’s 75th birthday season. Above and below deck, the ship looks in excellent condition. Galley arrangements under new chief steward Aoife Charles are working well, and there is cake in the Caledonia Tea Room. Organisationally, too, the Waverley operation is becoming increasingly adept at handling tricky situations. When a particularly ominous forecast forced the ship to curtail her programme north of Ardnamurchan and hotfoot it back to Oban last Thursday night, passengers who had booked for the entire week were not left stranded: Waverley Excursions Ltd quickly hired a coach to bring everyone back from Kyle of Lochalsh. All this indicates that Paul Semple, WEL’s general manager, is on top of the manifold challenges that every season throws up.
Waverley at Armadale on 7 June with CalMac ferry Loch Bhrusda. On the first two days of her West Highland week, the paddler was bathed in sunshine. Click on image to enlarge
The immediate challenges are two-fold. The first is the programme for Waverley’s autumn visit to the south coast and the Thames, news of which the paddler’s many English supporters are keenly awaiting. Semple is currently hammering out details with the port authority at Tower Pier, the busy London base for Waverley’s lucrative cruises down the Thames. There, in common with Oban’s North Pier and several other ports, Waverley faces increased competition for berthing access from all manner of craft, including cruise ship tenders and high-volume year-round operators.
Compounding this problem is the number of changes in administrative personnel at some ports down south since Waverley last visited four years ago, meaning that Semple may be dealing with people who don’t know the ship or understand her significance. And he could not even start negotiating a south coast timetable until he could be sure he had a crew.
The second challenge is the price of fuel, which has risen by more than 35% since last summer and varies by the day. Last year the average cost of marine gas oil worked out at 55p per litre. It is now in the mid 80s. Under normal steaming at 14½ knots, Waverley consumes £11 of marine gas oil per minute. That works out at £600-plus an hour (Semple says he budgets for £750/800). WEL’s decision to impose a fuel surcharge should help — an extra £3 on full day fares (£36 and above), £2 on half-day fares (there is no surcharge on child fares) — but there is a limit to what the casual public will pay. More than ever, the ship needs good payloads in 2022: it is only when she carries 500-plus on any given day that she starts to cover maintenance costs for the winter.
Waverley at Raasay on 8 June. Views of the Cuillins were clear but slightly compromised by the amount of cloud cover
The good news is that Waverley at least ‘wiped her face’ in the West Highlands. More than 350 joined her for the sun-blessed trip north from Glasgow on Monday 6 June, and she had more than 450 for Sunday’s five-hour cruise from Oban, when she kissed the mouth of Corryvreckan but was prevented by strong winds and swell from passing through the Gulf.
On each of the three days north of Ardnamurchan she picked up decent three-figure numbers at Armadale/Kyle, Portree and Gairloch — enough to justify the visit, bolstered by about 70 hardy supporters who sailed north from Oban.
Waverley being Waverley, there will be bumps along the way, and they will be tackled as they appear. But with two visits each to Ardrishaig, Campbeltown and Arrochar in prospect (plus a return to Ayr), the core Clyde timetable has plenty to offer. With a successful visit to the West Highlands in the bag, the 2022 season is off to a confident start.
Morning rush hour at Oban on Tuesday 7 June, with (left to right) Clansman, Coruisk, Hebridean Princess and Waverley. Demand for space at the North Pier is huge, and the paddler had to share the berth with all manner of craft
Love at first sight? The profile of CalMac’s new Mull ferry Loch Frisa makes a striking contrast to Waverley at 8.30am on Tuesday 7 June, as the paddler prepares for her voyage round Ardnamurchan
Just like the old days: Waverley let off an uncharacteristic plume of black smoke on the approach to Armadale on Tuesday 7 June, with CalMac ferry Loch Fyne on the far left heading for Mallaig
To maximise revenue on her way north to Kyle of Lochalsh on 7 June, Waverley picked up passengers at Armadale and Kyle for cruises through Kyle Rhea (above), through which she passed three times in the space of five hours
The passage beneath the Skye Bridge was one of many scenic thrills enjoyed by passengers on the three days of cruising north of Ardnamurchan
On Wednesday 8 June Waverley offered excursionists a rare front-row view of the monumental basaltic columns lining the north-east coast of Skye. She also circumnavigated the island of Flodigarry (centre right) before heading back to Portree, Raasay and Kyle of Lochalsh. Everyone on board was fascinated by these ancient rock formations. What the West Highland week underlined was that the best way to see the land is from the sea
Captain Dominic McCall demonstrated a quick grasp of Waverley’s quirks, handling each pier with aplomb. He and Chief Officer Gary Stevenson are now on the permanent payroll — a welcome sign of stability. Dominic’s father Bernard, who died last year, was a prolific writer on maritime issues
At Raasay it was a pleasure to find John Gillies, local resident and master of CalMac ferry Hebridean Isles, fulfilling the off-duty task of taking Waverley’s ropes. John was joined on the pier by his father and son, both named Calum, who had come along to welcome the paddler on her first visit since 2018
Leaving Raasay on the return trip from Portree to Kyle of Lochalsh, with CalMac ferry Hallaig newly arrived from Sconser
Arrival at Gairloch on Thursday 9 June: the narrow face of the pier is quite similar to Lochranza, but Gairloch had to content itself with a single pier hand, who coped admirably
Waverley steams out from the narrows at the entrance to Upper Loch Torridon. Her visit there was one of the highlights of the 2022 West Highland week
After making an early dash back round Ardnamurchan last Thursday evening, ahead of storm forecasts, Waverley spent the night at anchor at Craignure. On the afternoon of Friday 10 June she proceeded to Oban’s North Pier, where she was dwarfed by the top hamper of Clansman (left) and Coruisk (right). Waverley’s management must be congratulated for hiring a coach at very short notice to bring 45 passengers back to Oban from Kyle of Lochalsh
Strong winds and swell forced the cancellation of Waverley’s Saturday cruise to Tobermory and Staffa. She spent Friday and Saturday nights at anchor at Craignure, where she was observed by CalMac ferries Coruisk and Loch Frisa
CRSC member John McNulty brought his model of King George V for the five-hour lochs cruise from Oban on Sunday 12 June: it was admired by countless passengers on Waverley’s promenade deck in front of the aft deck shelter, and had to be protected by bubble-wrap during occasional showers. John is currently working on a model of Waverley, which he will exhibit in the ship’s dining saloon during her 75th anniversary cruise to the head of Loch Long on Thursday 16 June
Happy memories of the West Highlands: Waverley arrives at Armadale on 7 June 2022
Published on 13 June 2022